Three Nights in Isolation
Photo Credit: Isabel Guzman
On Monday, the girls ride into Big Bend while viewing the desert landscape through the small car window.
Big Bend is one of the least visited national parks, with only 561,459 annual visitors reported in 2024. It's also one of the largest, ranking 15th in land-size across all 63 registered national parks. The closest commercial airport — the Midland International Air and Space Port — is a three-hour drive from the park. No matter where you're coming from, the journey out is going to be a drive.
Two friends and I chose to make the long drive from Houston on Sunday, April 16th — seven and a half hours from our Airbnb. Most of our time along the road was spent on Interstate 35, which isn’t exciting in the least, but that last hour and a half driving through the desert made it all worthwhile. As concrete turned to sand, all the grogginess of being cramped up in my tiny Subaru crosstrek turned into excitement for the days to come. We couldn’t wait to explore.
Photo Credit: Isabel Guzman
First arrival at the colorful home in Marathon, Texas, where the girls will be staying.
Our Airbnb was in Marathon, Texas, a small town about an hour and a half from Big Bend. There are options for camping outside the park and in the much closer town of Terlingua, but we couldn’t pass up the opportunity for a working shower at only $194 a night (which was cheap, considering how last-minute we booked). Exploring Marathon was absolutely worth the stay. Right after we arrived, we received a tour of our house by the lovely owner, Ingrid. The “goat shed” was made out of paper and recycled materials. It was — no joke — the most colorful house I had ever seen. The inside was filled with eclectic decorations: a full-sized circus scale, a 1960s-style jukebox and books spilling out from every corner.
After getting situated, we made our way out to the small art oasis of Marfa, Texas, for the rest of the night. At The Watershop, we ate some of the best burgers north of the Rio Grande. The food was delicious, but the drive back to Marathon was even more fulfilling. With the windows open and hardly anybody on the road, we watched the sky light up with more stars than I had ever seen in my entire life.
On Monday morning, we woke up bright and early to spend our first day in the park. Big Bend is situated within the Chihuahuan Desert along the Rio Grande river, and, let me tell you, it’s huge. Big Bend’s low visitor numbers and massive size meant getting in was a breeze. We hardly saw anyone the entire time we were there, which surprised me. Having visited other parks like Yellowstone, I expected crowds at almost every trail, but even the most popular sites at Big Bend were practically empty. The isolation made for a tranquil experience. We could hear every song the desert sang, from the rustle of wind in the trees to the breaking of rocks as they moved along the river.
Photo Credit: Samantha Reimers
The peak of the lost mine trail overlooks the Chisos Basin with a large rock formation in view.
The first trail we set upon was the Lost Mine Trail — a 2.4-mile hike across 1,100 feet of elevation. Our humidified Houston bodies weren’t used to the dry weather and higher altitude, so despite the short distance, we were completely out of breath by the time we summited the mountain. The view made our struggles worth it.
The Chisos Mountains rolled out before our eyes, the air quickly returning to our lungs as we looked upon peak after peak, each folding in upon one another to create a landscape of orange plateaus with green brushed throughout. The huge rock formation at the top of our hike created a beautiful contrast to the range in the distance and, thankfully, blocked the strong wind threatening to blow us off our feet. Pictures were a necessity.
Big Bend can be separated into three main areas: Rio Grande Village to the east, Chisos Basin in the center, and the Santa Elena Canyon to the west. After sweating our faces off at Lost Mine, we chose to head over to the river in the Rio Grande Village, where we could dip our toes in and cool down from the over-90-degree heat. The Rio Grande Nature Trail was our first stop here. A small path off the beaten road and hidden behind a slew of campsites, it was a little difficult to find — but it was an absolute jewel. The path took us right up to the river, the flora changing from sun-beaten cacti to long strands of grass growing from the river and towering over our heads. Toward the end of the trail, we climbed a small hill and got a nice view into Mexico and the small town of Boquillas situated right across the border.
Photo Credit: Samantha Reimers
The Rio Grande Nature Trail takes the girls through a path with fauna reaching out of the water and over their heads.
We also found a donkey!
After the Nature Trail and a quick change into our swimsuits, we headed over to one of Big Bend's most popular attractions. The drive into the Hot Springs was rocky, but thankfully, my trusty Subaru came equipped with four-wheel drive. If you ever plan to make your way out to the park, I recommend bringing a car suitable for bumpy, unpaved roads. The Hot Springs Historic Trail — the path to the spring itself — contained a bunch of old buildings detailing the history of the area. It made for a pleasant walk to the final destination, where we finally got to soak in the stone pool right along the river. The water was warm and relaxed my joints more than any massage ever could. As the sun started to set, the few people there left, and we had the area all to ourselves — here, we could enjoy the expansive views of the river in complete isolation.
We ended our day with one last hike — a short 1.5-mile round-trip through Boquillas Canyon. We got up close and personal with a whole herd of cows, who crossed the river and ended up almost 10 feet away from where we were standing. I found it interesting how the wildlife in the park never seemed to be scared of people. They roamed freely and completely disregarded us while they waded through the water. We spent almost an hour watching them, completely still so we wouldn’t scare any of the cattle away.
The night ended with stargazing in Boquillas Canyon. Big Bend is considered one of the greatest places to go stargazing, and I have to say, I completely agree with that consideration. Laying out in the sand below the canyon, I could distinguish the Big Dipper, the Little Dipper, and the North Star from between the two overarching peaks. The chirping of the bats right above our heads was the only noise we could make out as we gazed upon the night sky, shimmering in all its glory.
Photo Credit: Samantha Reimers
The window at the end of the Windows Trail provides breathtaking views of Big Bend National Park.
On Tuesday morning, Redbulls in hand, we prepared for our second day in the park. We headed back to the Chisos Basin for our second big hike: The Windows Trail. This one took us down to, well, a window, between two mountains which provided another breathtaking view of the formation right across. Some rock scrambling was required to reach the end of the path, but the sight made up for me nearly breaking my ankle.
After the trail, we all packed into my car once again and headed along the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive, itself an attraction, with stops including the historic Sam Neill Ranch where we had lunch, the Lower Burro Mesa Pouroff where we climbed up a dry waterfall and the Castolon Historic District where we met some park rangers and learn a little more about the history of the area. You would think we got tired of driving at this point, but the views — mixed with a five-hour playlist of country music — helped pass the time until we reached Santa Elena Canyon, and it felt like we hadn’t been in the car at all.
Santa Elena Canyon is what I consider to be the crown jewel of Big Bend. I felt like an ant standing at the bottom, looking up at the giant plateaus on either side. It was a bit busier than the park’s other areas — children laughed while splashing through the river, and men hiked up and down with their fishing gear — but that didn’t take away from the experience in any sense. I could see my own enjoyment reflected in the others. Sunburns and wet socks brought us together as a sort of collective: a bunch of people out in the wilderness exploring just as thousands had done before. When a mom scolded her son for trying to climb too far up the side of the canyon, I could almost see my future.
We headed back to Marathon much earlier on this day. Wednesday was going to be an early morning, so we needed enough rest. I packed some, ate my glorious frozen dinner, and took the longest shower of my life. Thank you, hot water! Finally, I tucked in, letting the crickets serenade me to sleep for the cold, empty night.
Photo Credit: Samantha Reimers
The girls get ready to take on the mountains atop their horses at Big Bend Stables.
Wednesday was horseback riding, the only activity we had pre-planned. We did a half-day guided tour through Big Bend Stables, which included lunch and allowed for plenty of time riding around in the desert. The best part was — no surprise here — the views. The horses could reach places that would be more difficult to reach on foot, and we were able to cross long distances in a much shorter amount of time. I remember smiling from ear to ear as my horse trekked downhill, the wind in my hair and the sun on my face. It was dusty, but a good dusty.
After hopping off the saddle, it was finally time. We made a quick stop in Terlingua to grab a coffee before the drive back commenced. West Texas fell behind us as we went along our way, enjoying the final desert sunset through the car windows.
Big Bend was amazing; the only disappointment was that we couldn’t stay longer. Growing up in Texas and having traveled through a decent amount of it, I thought I was well-versed on all it had to offer. I couldn’t have been more wrong. The Chihuahuan desert and Big Bend were unlike anything I had ever seen before. The landscape was diverse in nature but consistent in its shared history of ranchers and farmers who had somehow made their way through the grueling heat. There is so much you can do even in such a short amount of time. I couldn’t have asked for a better experience.